From Banaue to Batad

The next step in our multipart journey was to head to the mountains in the northern provinces of Luzon. Kevin and family had already headed in that direction with Grandpa and Lola and we were to meet up with them in Banaue. We landed in Manila, came back to Makati and within the span of about 1 hour unpacked, repacked, showered, and ate before leaving to catch a bus. From there it was an 8 hour overnight bus ride through windy mountain roads to Banaue where the famed rice terraces - the 8th wonder of the world - are located. Visiting Banaue and the nearby villages would allow us to walk back in time and try to imagine how these terraces were constructed 2000 years ago and how they remain today and continue to support the livelihood of the local residents.

Kevin and company were to have gone further north of Banaue to the mountain town of Sagada and then meet us in Banaue on their way back down. Sadly, their daughter Kiani became quite ill with a high fever and dehydration. So, rather than take in the sights of northern Luzon they got a tour of the third world medical system. We are lucky to have many friends here who are doctors and with just one text message, several doctors in the local province were alerted to Kevin's arrival and made sure they got the care they needed. As Kiani slowly recovered, Kevin became ill, so they stopped in Banaue, checked in at a nice hotel, and just stayed put until they returned to better health.

The "silver lining" here is that they were in Banaue upon our arrival so we were afforded a couple of extra days together that would not have happened had they continued on to Sagada. Hans, Jordan, Bob and I got off the bus just after 7 AM and made our way to the hotel where the other traveling Landels were staying. We joined them for breakfast and revised our travel plans a bit. Hans, Jo Jo, Bob, and I had planned to hike into Batad for an overnight stay. With a little planning it was decided that Grandpa, Dagmar, and Hannah would join us. Kevin and Kiani were too ill for the trip. Lola earned the "Florence Nightingale" award for agreeing to stay behind and tend to them while we continued sightseeing (Thank you, Lola!!).

We hired a jeep to take us to the trailhead and a guide to accompany us on the hike. It was a 45 minute ride on a very bumpy, hilly, and rocky road but we were excited to be in the mountains amid very different scenery. The air was cooler and remarkably fresh. The mountains were spectacular and terraces visible at every corner. After so much time on buses, planes, and jeepneys, the prospect of hiking for a few days was also delightful.

Jarek was our guide and I would be remiss in not saying right away what a delight he was to have along. He was very knowledgable about the area, the flora and fauna, the people and the culture. He was laid back and laughed easily with us. And, he took very good care of all our needs, including helping the youngest and the oldest in our group make their way down a difficult hike. We were fortunate to have him with us.

The hike was spectacular! It was largely downhill so it was a bit pounding on the quads and knees at times, but the scenery was amazing. Neither my words nor our pictures can convey the splendor of the terraces and the mountain scenery in general. The mountain vistas filled our field of view and simply can't be captured in a snapshot. We tried to piece it together in some panaromas, but the full, life-size view of it all is breath-taking, awe-inspiring, and truly a wonder. The rice terraces in Banaue are pretty, but some are now obstructed by new construction in town. Once you get off that beaten path and escape into the more remote areas you can really see the extent of the terraces all throughout the valley and see them still being planted, tended, and harvested in small villaged tucked here and there throughout the moutainsides.

It took us nearly 3 hours to reach Batad as we hiked in our typical leisure Landel pace. Time was passing though and a spectacular waterfall was just another of hour or two further. Once in Batad, a few stayed behind at the inn, while the rest of us pressed on and picked up the pace just a bit so we could see the falls and get back to the inn before dark.

First, to be clear, Batad as a village is charming and spectucular. The Inn sits up above the actual village and the terraces essentially sit like an amphitheater surrounding the village. The terraces here are stone and are positively amazing. The fields at high elevations were harvested and resting until the next planting, those at lower elevations were already planted for the second crop and mid-way into the growing season, glistening in shades of green and gold. At the foot of it all was a tiny little village comprised largely of traditional Ifugao huts. Looking down into the village was truly looking back in time.

We left our vantage point up on the hill and made our way down to the village. We walked along the terraces and got an upclose view of the terrace walls, the irrigation canals, and the rice itself. To be walking on these 2000 year old walls was an experience in itself, but to see them still supporting the rice fields and the agricultural practices initiated all those years ago continuing on today was also remarkable. Jarek spoke proudly of the qualities of "mountain rice" over "low land" rice. They use no animals for labor, only humans. They use no fertilizers or chemicals, just naturally mulch with unused rice stalks. The fields are irrigated with mountain spring water channeled to the terraces through an intricate canal systems built when the terraces were originally constructed. As you walk through you can see this all taking place.

Tucked around a corner beyond the terraces are the Tappia Waterfall. We didn't have much time to linger and enjoy them, but were glad for the chance to hike to them and enjoy the mist from the falls and the rushing sound of the falling water. We took a moment to soak it all in and then prepared for the climb back up to the inn. It was a steep and somewhat slippery climb up wet steps for our already tired legs. Jarek was great at helping Jordan make his way up stairs clearly designed for those with VERY long legs and helping us all pace ourselves as we wound our way back to the inn. We stopped for frequent water breaks and to catch a few more photos with the setting sun. We made it back well before dark and prepared for a relaxing evening.

Classic Filipino dishes were served up for dinner and we enjoyed eating on the veranda looking over the terraces. As nightfell, there were no lights that came on in the village that has little or no electricity. Instead, you could see little pockets of "orange" glowing here and then where fires were lit to prepare meals. And, of course above us were countless stars illuminating the skies, including, as luck would have it, a wonderful shower of the Leonid meteors. Talk about an amazing place to watch a meteor shower!!

After dinner, Orlando, one of the cooks from the inn, pulled out his guitar (and a bottle of rice wine) and began to strum and sing. Soon, Jarek and others from the inn were gathered around him and we, too, were invited to join them (and sip the rice wine!). Orlando had an old songbook and we sang the evening away. Its those moments of just sitting back in the simplest of conditions, smiling and singing that make you truly appreciate where you are. Hillside Inn had little electricity. The "shower" was a barrel of water and a ladle. The rooms were simple foam mattresses on a wooden frame. The walls were just that, framed, but no wallboard, or paint. It was less than five dollar (US) per person to stay there. Yet, with a tasty dinner in our bellies, a view better than any resort, and the simply pleasure of music to enterain us, we had everything we needed and not a care in the world (other than how sore would we be in the morning and would we be able to make the hike out!). It was a little touch of heaven.

Come morning, we were preparing for the hike out. Grandpa - who is a remarkably young 83 - was filling in the guest book just before our departure. He recorded his thoughts and then shared them with us in the most touching moment of the trip. He relayed his joy in taking in the sights and his ability to share these experiences with us, recognizing that few trips like this remain in his future. His sentiments brought more than a few tears to our eyes as we all celebrated Grandpa's ability to make the strenuous hike at his age, and acknowledged the mortality that we all face as those golden years sneak up on you. It certainly made me appreciate how lucky were were to have Grandpa with us, and even made me speculate about what adventures I may have with my own grandchildren at that age!

For our hike out, Jarek suggested we take a different route that would be a bit longer in mileage but gentler in slope. It would be easier on the legs and give us new sights to see. Another guide, Charlie, would join Jarek to make sure we had help for the kids and for Grandpa to make our way out. Charlie assisted Grandpa in some of the rougher parts of the trail and packed his belongings to lighten his load. Jarek gave Hannah some assistance, even going so far as to carry her on his back from some distance. Charlie and Jarek together also helped Hans identify even more plants and insects. Jordan seemed to have gathered a "second wind" and let the way much of the days, whistling all the while. Jarek got a laugh or two out of Jordan's observations. He asked Jarek why there weren't more birds and Jarek explained that the birds are hunted and people eat them so there just aren't a lot to see. Jordan shrugged at that response and simply asserted that it was better not to starve that just sit and look at pretty birds. Jarek thought Jordan was quite the "philosopher"!

As we made our way down the trail, we wound our way through more small, remote villages. The elevation was a bit lower on this side, so many of the fields were planted for the second crop and were gleaming green which made for beautiful sights and some glorious pictures. After just over four hours, we reached the trailhead and the jeep that would take us back to Banaue. This escape to a such a remote place and the time spent among the people who live there - and sharing that time with three generations of Landels - made the trip to Batad a very memorable one for all of us.